Dear Rene, Did you know that about 90% of French wine comes from machine harvested grapes? In some other countries, it's even more. Simply put, a harvesting tractor that shakes and beats the vines until grapes fall off cannot be as selective as a person with eyes and hands. The harvesting tractor is better for tons per hour, the person is better for quality. Similarly, in many regions the norm includes the bulk spraying of chemical herbicides in vineyards because it allows the treatment of an entire vineyard in a short time. Herbicides are quicker, weeding by hand makes for healthier vines and higher quality grapes. Doug RosenWhen a small family winery like Domaine des Roy in Fontlevoy (the best part of Touraine) makes the decision to do everything by hand (from weeding to harvesting to winemaking) the quality of their wines often outshines their neighbors that work industrially. Frequently, though, this attention to detail and this more laborious method also means that their wines' prices outshine their neighbors', too. Today's wonderful featured wines are refreshing exceptions. The wines, one juicy, silky and delicious red and one nuanced and intensely flavored white, are painstakingly farmed, organically grown, hand harvested (a refreshing deviation from the norms in Touraine), and estate-bottled. The attention to detail continues in the cellar with an artisan approach that avoids adding commercial yeasts and enzymes (it means their fermentations are slower but their wines are more complex). The quality of the wines is superb and they are garnering great critical praise. But somehow they missed the memo that their prices should be higher than their more industrial, higher volume, lower quality neighbors! Kudos to Thomas Calder (of Thomas Calder selections) for discovering this star of the Touraine. The warm and sunny 2009 vintage resulted in outstanding, ripe and flavorfulTouraines. These are some of the best we've ever tasted and the prices are far lower than comparable wines. Our best e-mail prices allow you to save 25%-27% off the already amazing low prices.
2009 Domaine des Roy Touraine "Les Silex" Blanc Reg. $14.99 mix 6 price: $11.99 per bottle mix 12 price: $10.99 per bottle Named for the flinty stones in clay soils (the same great soil type as the best of the famous Pouilly Fumé vineyards), this shows great ripeness, depth and concentration. Certified organic by Ecocert, this white isa blend of intensely flavorful chenin blanc with soft, round menu-pineau (also called arbois) all from vines averaging 30 years of age. Here's how it tastes: The color is pale yellow with gold highlights. The aromas are ripe and exotic, bringing to mind white grapefruit, peaches and Asian pears, with a mineral nuance that suggests orange peel and slate. This is ripe and supple on the front palate showing flavors of pear and peach, on the long finish it turns more to the ripe and refreshing citrusy grapefruit notes. This has a supple, almost creamy mouthfeel and wonderful lingering aroma. This is a substantial white, but it has no oak and it is not at all heavy. For a perfect food match, consider chicken with a basil cream sauce or scallops St. Jacques. Jim Cutts |
These are copies of emails I received from Arrowine, containing descriptions of wines I ended up buying. I take no responsibility for the statements in the emails but I do know that I liked most of the wines and they are very affordable. Note that these wines generally sell out very quickly, so chances are they are no longer available by the time you read this. The emails nevertheless contain interesting information.
Thursday, July 28, 2011
2009 Domaine des Roy Touraine "Les Silex" Blanc
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